Integrated Pest Management When pests, their eggs and debris are heavily concentrated, insects and disease problems can be reduced or eliminated by removing the affected leaves or plant parts. Crush, burn or compost these infested plant parts to prevent further spread of disease or insects. Handpicking and spraying with water also effectively control some large, slow-moving pests. After you handpick, dispose of the captured insects so they do not return to feed again. Some disposal options include: Dropping pests into soapy water or isopropyl alcohol. Placing pests in a container in a freezer over night. Composting pests in the center of a hot compost pile. Crushing the pests. Avoid using broad-spectrum pesticides. Remember, broad-spectrum pesticides are not selective; they will kill beneficial insects and insects that are not a problem. Safer alternatives to traditional pesticides include insecticidal soaps, Ultra Fine oil and horticultural oils to reduce populations of sucking insects. Products containing an extract of the bacterium Bacillus thuringensis kurstaki or aizawai or Saccharopolyspora spinosa [spinosad] will reduce populations of caterpillars. Treat for specific pests and only treat the affected plant. Read all product labels carefully and follow them accordingly. Do not attempt to mix your own chemicals or apply homemade recipes unless you have been properly trained to do so. Once Bacillus formulations are used on caterpillars, you can collect the infected caterpillars that are dying and becoming flaccid and store them in milk -- just to cover the worms -- and keep them in the refrigerator. Once you see an infestation of caterpillars start, take the solution out, add enough water to double the amount of liquid and let it sit for 24 hours. Then blend this up well and use it to spray the infestation.

When large populations of lady beetles are found in the fall they can be stored in ice cream cartons.

• Place a small amount of straw in the container and moisten it.
• Add the lady beetles, cover.
• Place in the refrigerator.
• When aphid or mite problems begin to develop in the spring, take lady beetles out and leave on counter overnight.
• Release the next day.

In general, it is best to apply soaps, oils and pesticides during the cooler part of the day to avoid plant injury. Some plants may be sensitive to certain products. Read the label to find out which plants are listed. To test for phytotoxicity, apply the product to a small portion of the leaf first and check for leaf burn after an hour.

Timing of your application is critical. Treatments should be made when they are most effective on the pest. This reduces the number of sprays required to manage a problem. Formulations of the insecticide are important. One can reduce phytotoxicity by using materials that are wettable powders, soluble powders, flowables or granules. Emulsifiable concentrates have oil-based carriers like benzene or hexane and are the primary culprits of phytotoxicity. Once on the foliage, they can magnify heat and light to burn plant foliage.

The pH level is critical in the application and effectiveness of insecticides. Normally, the water from the faucet has a pH of about 8.3, which is basic. Since insecticides are acid-forming, the water has to be acidified, or the water will break down the insecticide through a process called alkaline hydrolysis. The optimal range for water pH is between 5.5 and 6.5. The pH can be measured by several means, but the more accurate measure is with a digital pH pen (obtained from Ben Meadows or Forestry Supplies or other large nursery outlets). The adjustment of the water pH can be accomplished by using a buffer. Several are available on the market from various nursery outlets.